Kuching - the one and only

29/01/2012 7:45 PM

One of the many cat statues

So another evening in Kuching and another day well spent. One can spend hours and days just wandering the town and discovering new corners. It is said that it takes time to truly understand the appeal and attraction of Kuching. It really is a lovely town and there is much to do and see. I will spend another two days here before changing locations.

So I had a late start today... got up around 7:30 and had a light breakfast at the hostel. I then ventured out in the heat to explore the farmers market which was completely awesome and a total must see. However, unfortunately, my camera did not make the journey with me but rather spent a relaxing morning in my air-conditioned room lying on my bed. At times, while out on my morning walk, I was very much jealous, especially of the air conditioning. Borneo is beautiful but it is unbelievably hot. It indeed hit 35 degrees today, disregarding humidity, and there was not a cloud in the sky – at least there was not this morning. With the sun beating down there is always the hope that it will cloud over; the sun here makes it feel like you are in an Easy-Bake Oven with the single light bulb turned to the max. It’s hot and the sun makes it hotter!

The famous Laksa

So my morning was spent wandering around dripping sweat. I had an early lunch of Laksa which is to some extent the Malay version of pho, except better. Yes, that is correct; there is a soup that outshines pho. The base is a combination of beef broth, coconut milk, curry, and chilli paste. In it there are some delicious rice noodles as well as prawns, chicken and fried, cut up egg. It’s served with even more chilli paste and lime. Once it is all mixed up it is the most wonderful, devilish concoction that should, with respect to morality and everything that is humane, be banished from the mortal world, only to be enjoyed in the after-life. It’s like I died and went to some evil genius’s, far-fetched, ludicrously obscene and unmistakably delicious, artificially created version of heaven made up of everything good combined with all the evils that make this world a wonderful place to live, over and over again with every bite. It’s a hell-broth that is perfectly balanced. Creamy, tangy, mellow, with a kick of fiery-flames once swallowed. Words truly cannot do it justice. It’s that good. After my foodgasm I stumbled back to my hostel for some well needed air conditioning and some ice cold water which is provided free of charge (perhaps knowingly provided to unsuspecting laksa virgins, who have just been initiated into the great art). 

Another Cat Statue

After some well needed R&R, I booked my flight to Miri, which is a few hundred KM from Kuching. There is not much in the town itself, but it serves rather as a hub to explore the numerous park and nature areas within the vicinity. After this I’m not quite sure what I did, there’s a three hour gap missing from my memory.... I blame that Laksa (there is close to zero alcohol in this country so don’t get the wrong idea). Around 3 PM I headed out for an early dinner to the local eatery I have been frequenting while here. I believe it to be called Borneo Delights. A somewhat chic place serving up local dishes and freshly squeezed juices and local prices. 

I dropped back to my hostel for a few minutes to check in on some local advice... obviously about Laksa. I was given some vague directions with the hopes that they might lead me somewhere and they did, however, it was not to where I was expecting. This is one of the things I love about traveling to new places, finding the unexpected and delightful corners that dot the towns and cities of the world. Apparently there are two distinct and entirely separate china-towns in the city of around 300 000 people. Now don’t ask me what the difference is as the reply will be “I don’t know” but they are definitely distinct and different. I found some fantastic BBQ places displaying their freshly cooked pork and duck products hanging in their windows. I think this is the thing I love most about Malaysia, it is a huge melting-pot of a wide range of different cultures; from the British influence, to the Muslims living here, to the Chinese immigrants to the locals who have always been here. The food is a perfect reflection of this. You can find EVERYTHING, you’ve just got to look for it and not be scarred to walk down the wrong road or into the wrong shop. I guess this is what I meant earlier when I said that the longer you spend here; the more you fall in love with it. Kuching is amazing and unreal. It has taken everything great from all the world’s cultures and combined it to make something new and unfathomed. Mix this in with the Borneo rainforest, surrounded by the South-China Sea and you’ve got something indescribable. You need to experience it; that is all I can say. 

This tree is literally 15 stories tall

So like I said earlier I booked my flight today; I will be flying to Miri on the first of February. I have yet to book accommodations, but I am not concerned. 

That is all for now, tomorrow I my head to the Orang-utan Sanctuary early in the morning to watch the feeding so I am planning on an early evening.