First Days in Burma - Yangon

29/02/2012 9:40 PM

I’ve just gotten off a one hour flight that has transported me back in time 50 years. Literally. Where am I? I’m in Yangon, the dethroned capital of Myanmar. To say it is a change from anywhere I have ever been would be a gross understatement. There are no street lights. Power is never guaranteed. Taxis roam the streets missing doors and other “optional” extras. Open flames roar in streets. The sight of a 6+ foot tall westerner is a shock to the young and old. This is Yangon. There are no chain stores here. There are not ATM’s. Plastic does not work. Internet is sketchy, at best, when found. This is Yangon, a beautiful and marvellous city, untouched by western tourism and left to bask openly in the glory of the Burmese culture and mentality. 

The largest city in Myanmar, yet it brings feeling of being in a small town. Perhaps it’s the fortunate lack of western influence and the “backpacker generation” who I have unfortunately, albeit hypocritically, come to loath. This is not Bangkok, nor Saigon, nor Bali, nor Hanoi. There is no “Backpacker’s district”. There is just a city that is awe inspiring with massive temples that glitter with their golden domes, locals who watch the world go by while sipping tea. The development of such a place has come out of huge misfortune and terrible circumstances, but in a sense, that is what makes it great. It has not lost it’s virginity to the outside world. It has not changed much in the last century, and I fear, as unfortunate as it is, it will fall into the ill-fated realm of what Bangkok, Saigon and all the other major cities of SE Asia have become.

Yet, as beautiful as this city is, I fear that there is an uncertainty in the air. What will become of this city in the next decade I dare not think of; I believe Myanmar to be one of the last untouched and unsoiled destinations in SE Asia. It is exactly what I as hoping for. I can walk down the street, in the Central District, and not see a single pale face. It’s wonderful. Its a shocking change; but a change that makes one realize why you are here. 

I’ve been here only a number of hours; so enough of my opinion. Lets give it a few more days before I comment any further on this country. It’s time for an update of my last week.

So it has been a few days since I’ve checked in. I believe the last time I wrote was while I was in Bali. A lot has changed since then, a lot that I have many feelings about. Bali was a beautiful place and I was sad to leave the beaches, but Bali will not change any more than it already has. Maybe a few more resorts will be built and a few more Australians will invade, but what is left of its culture will remain.

Bangkok, is a place many people who I have spoken with love. All I can say, is that it is not for me. It is a city that never sleeps; it caters to a part crowd. To those who engage in things both legal and illegal. Now, I realize my opinion is somewhat biased as I was staying in the Khaosan area... ie the backpacker’s district. But, the major cities in Asia are all very similar. The street food was fantastic, the traffic horrendous and the people, well, that depends; some want your money others are simply there to help. I do not think I will remain long in Bangkok on my return from here. Whether I decide to travel the rest of Thailand is another question altogether. It is a big country, and for some reason, is not all that appealing to me. Most likely I will head to Cambodia following my tour here.

I’m not sure what else to say at this point. I'm tired, it took me a while to find a guesthouse here and its time to sleep. There is no night life in Yangon, people wake early. Tomorrow I will head to a travel agency to book my 15+ hour bus ride up to Mandalay. 

Gnight!